Strong, dry breezes ruffle the quiet serenity of the temperate country side. Wild grass thrust through pleasantly undulating ground while a lone lizard revels in brilliant sunshine, poised on one of many ancient stone ruins. Overhead looms the Yapahuwa rock, 300-foot isolated fortified wonder with a history dating back to the 13th Century. In that era, Yapahuwa was Sri Lanka's seat of governance and home to the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha. Today it is one of the country's most unique and important sites of historic interest containing abundant traces of ancient battlements and remnants of king Buvenekabahu's (1273-1284 AD) kingdom. It is also home to the singular Chinese-looking 'Yapahuwa Lion' stone sculpture, the likeness of which is reproduced in the country's newest Rs. 10 note. Historians compare Yapahuwa to the Sigiriya rock fortress but note that it was built on a much smaller scale. Its most remarkable masterwork remains an ornamental stairway that conducted the royal palace. Surrounding vistas of breathtaking beauty enriches the climb to the top; rambling jungle, rolling hills and sunbathed rocks combine to create a picture-perfect tableau. Yapahuwa is in the Pahala-visi-deka Korale, Wanni Hatpattu, of the Northwestern Province. Situated on the outskirts of Kurunegala, it is just three miles from the Maho railway station. For those choosing the rail option, hop off at the Maho station and either use the bus service that shuttles back and forth or, if adventurous enough, trek through the scenic countryside. The right footwear and a sun-hat are recommended for the entire expedition. The Yapahuwa rock rises abruptly from the plains. On its southern and eastern faces, terraces retained by walls permit access to the summit. The king had enclosed the city with a towering wall and a moat, protecting the palace within. A cave temple was built for monks at the apex. It still contains statues of the Buddha and paintings of the Kandyan period. Unlike Sigiriya, however, the palace was not constructed at the summit of the 91-metre flat-topped crag but on a lower level. Meanwhile, evidence suggests that the settlement on the rock was more urban than rural. Intriguingly, there is no mention of Yapahuwa beyond the 13th Century in Sri Lanka's historical sources. However, most recent archaeological excavations in Yapahuwa indicate that Buvenekabahu's hill top kingdom had close diplomatic ties with China. During early excavations, several Chinese ceramics were found. They are now known to be among the finest specimens discovered in the island. Unearthed, too were a large number of celadon pottery pieces and more than 1,000 Chinese coins. The history surrounding Yapahuwa rock is fascinating. It is also called 'Subha pabbata' (or 'Subha's rock') after a military leader named Subha who, perceiving the location's uses as a brilliant point of military defence, made Yapahuwa his stronghold before Buvenekabahu moved there. [h] F